Community Contributed
Crossing the Tararuas - Levin to Masterton
Kete Horowhenua2020-03-23T16:51:21+00:00| Date | 13 February 1909 |
CROSSING THE TARARUAS.
A MOUNTAINEERING EXPLOIT - LEVIN TO MASTERTON.
Two well-known Levin settlers, Messrs G. L. Adkin and E. S. Lancaster, started on Saturday, the 13th. February, to cross the Tararua Ranges. Each carried a swag of about 35lbs, which included a tent fly blankets, a map of the district and a camera— provisions sufficient to last for ten days, were also, an essential part of their equipment.
They drove from Levin as far as possible up the Ohau river, and then began to ascend a spur on the western side. Heavy rain compelled them to camp when only half way up, hut they found comfortable shelter from the elements under a giant rata.
On Sunday morning, after completing their climb up the spur, they descended to the Mangahau river, amid some very fine scenery. In one place they found a clearing of some three acres, which puzzled them somewhat until they discovered that it was merely a gigantic land slide, which had come down bodily from the hillside into the valley, blocked the river and raised its bed some twenty feet. The explorers camped at this spot on Sunday night.
MOUNT DUNDAS.
On Monday morning, at daylight, Messrs Alkin and Lancaster took up a bush spur running up towards Mount Dundas, an elevation on the western side of the Tararuas, nearly five thousand feet above the sea level. The way was difficult owing to the thick scrub on the spur, and it took the party seven and a-half hours to reach the summit. There they found the weather-beaten trig station, battered by many a storm, but still in a substantial condition.
They had arranged with their Levin friends to signal to them from the summit at 3 p.m. on Sunday by lighting a fire. The signal was responded to from Levin by hoisting a white sheet, and when night fell by a fire lit from the Levin side.
A GLORIOUS SUNRISE.
The view from Mount Dundas was clouded towards the east, but on the western side it was clear. When darkness set in long rows of street lamps could be traced in the western towns, including Feilding, Foxton and Levin. The explorers found sleeping on the summit of Mount Dundas to be a little chilly, but they made a good bed of tussocks, and on this they were fairly comfortable.
Then at dawn there was a glorious sunrise, such as a man sees but once in his life, and ever after remembers. They watched the shadow of the mountain on which they rested painted on the western horizon as a blue peak which slowly faded away as the sun rose in, its majesty. By the morning light in, as it were, an ocean of glory, they picked out one by one the gilded peaks of Ruapehu, Egmont and the Kaikouras. They saw Stevens' Island and identified the main points of the Tararuas rising above the seas of clouds which lay below.
A SWIM IN CLOUDLAND.
After making a good breakfast the pioneers started along the main range to interview Mitre Peak. They travelled some three and a half miles over rugged depressions on the Tararua ridges, delighted with the wealth of flowers along their path, and also with the small lakes which they encountered. At one of these they ventured to undress and indulge in a swim, such as mortal man had never before attempted on these range tops. At this point, too, the explorers discovered the head waters of the mighty Ruamahanga river.
DOWN THE WAINGAWA.
Tuesday morning broke with a heavy nor'-wester raging and a thick driving fog. Under these conditions Messrs Adkin and Lancaster decided not to climb the Mitre Peak. They had a good look at this well-known eminence, and then descended on the western side, along the head waters of the Waingawa river, which they succeeded in reaching after a couple of hours' travelling.
The scenery was grand, and the alpine flowers were 'abundant. They came across the blue mountain duck and met many pigeons.
After a trying journey they camped there for the night, in a sheltered gorge, where they found good water and plenty of birch firewood.
WILD CATTLE.
The pathfinders then came to comparatively easy country in the river flat clearings of the Waingawa. Here they met with numerous herds of wild cattle, which seemed surprised to see them, and they found wild pigeon and duck in considerable numbers.
After leaving the Mitre flats travelling became more difficult, but the way was varied by some wonderful waterfalls, which appeared to drop down hundreds of feet over moss and ferns. In the afternoon the explorers came once more in touch with civilisation, for they reached a clearing on the boundary of a forest reserve.
They shouted and got an immediate answer from Blake Brothers, who were building a sheep yard almost close to where they emerged. Messrs Blake thought the explorers were a party from the Mount Bruck track, and were astonished to hear that they had made their way from the other side of the ranges.
From this point Messrs 'Adkin and Lancaster found an easy descent to the Upper Plain Road, and camped for the night on. Mr Deal's property. Mr Deal was very good to them, and on the following morning drove them into Masterton in his dog-cart, and showed them round the town. Mr Adkin said his last visit to Masterton was paid 28 years ago, and he was surprised to notice the strides it had since made.
THE HEAD WATERS.
The party took no less than fifty photographs on the trip. Some of mountain flowers, which Mr Adkin had with him, were wonderfully clear and good, but the balance had gone to Levin with Mr Lancaster. They saw the head waters of all the rivers that flow from the mountains, the Otaki, the Ohau, the Mangahau, the Waiohine, the Waingawa, and the Ruamahanga. The snow from the ranges melts almost exclusively into the Wairarapa rivers.
Of course, it is only experienced men, familiar with bush country, who can safely cross the Tararua ranges, and even then it is an ordeal requiring much courage and endurance. Messrs Adkin and Lancaster have every reason to be proud of their achievement — Wairarapa Times.